As luck would have it, the very first place we stayed for our week in Scotland together turned out to be the favorite of our Scottish accommodations. It also just so happened to be the bed & breakfast we knew the least about before our trip – what a delightful surprise!
Greystones, a boutique b&b on the Argyll coast in Oban was our first stop after Michael picked me up at the Edinburgh airport. We happened upon the Greystones website online when we were searching (and searching!) for a place to stay in between Edinburgh and Skye, and since it seemed like a decent fit, we booked their last room quickly as they were filling up left and right.
Consisting of five contemporary rooms inside a beautiful historic Scottish Baronial house overlooking the pristine Oban Bay and just a short walk to the water, Greystones perfectly blends the old and new. We simply adored our bright, spacious room (with its massively tall ceilings!), and couldn’t get over the views from the breakfast nook, where we enjoyed an exceptional meal each morning of our stay. Owners, Mark & Suzanne, were wonderful innkeepers and we so appreciated their calming, minimal aesthetic.
When the time came for us to head up the coast to Skye, we were terribly sad to leave Greystones. We found solace, however, in the fact that we could at least share this gem of a bed & breakfast with you all here, as we truly believe everyone traveling to the western coast of Scotland should make it a point to stay here.
Contact Information - Greystones Bed & Breakfast
When we moved up to Maine from North Carolina six years ago, I remember how excited I was that we’d only be a few hours drive from so many New England destinations I’d always wanted to visit. The Berkshires were of course high on that list of places, and thankfully we’ve had a chance to visit this stunning region in western Massachusetts three times in the last couple of years. Until this most recent visit, our trips had always taken us to North County – North Adams & Williamstown, but as part of our trip to Hudson, NY we decided to take the opportunity to familiarize ourselves with the South County region, specifically the charming town of Great Barrington.
In general, it’d probably be fair to say that the years haven’t been kind to the mid-century Americana classic road-trip motel. Scattered along seemingly every state road, motels represent a time before big box “cookie-cutter” accommodations, where road trips were an integral part of vacationing and where you spent the night had a distinctly local feel. Now days, motels largely get ignored and have started showing their age, as was probably the case with the Briarcliff Motel property before husband and wife, Richard Proctor and Clare Weatherall injected it with a passion for service, a creative eye for design, and the desire to provide an affordable B&B-style accommodation in the middle of the Berskshires. I’d wanted to stay at the Briarcliff Motel since reading about the renovated 1960s motel turned bed & breakfast in this Food & Wine article. Not only is the Briarcliff incredibly dog-friendly, centrally located near a number of hiking trails and with a wall of past four-legged visitors, the rooms are comfortable and stylish, the breakfasts are delicious, and the co-owners and staff are extremely friendly and helpful. We couldn’t have asked for a better place to rest our heads at night during our stay.
Lunch was the first thing on our minds when we arrived in Great Barrington, so we headed straight to Rubi’s for a couple of sandwiches. Known for the cheese-mongering in the next room, the list of sandwiches, creatively centered around their cheeses, was impressive. After finishing up our delcious lunch, we were eager to browse the selection at Rubiner’s Cheesemongers, right next door. It wasn’t easy to select one of their dozens of fine cheeses, but we ended up settling on the Goat Lady Gouda to share with our friends in Hudson, and we’ve been dreaming of finding it locally ever since.
Our brunch at the Prairie Whale, on the outskirt of Main Street in Great Barrington, was another pleasant dining surprise. We sat outside with Orvis and enjoyed a delicious and leisurely brunch of a burger and eggs in the warm sun. I had a second to peek my head inside at the bar, and only wished that we would have time to return for a drink later, which sadly didn’t play out. Next time, for sure – we enjoyed our meals at the Prairie Whale so much that we’re certain there will be a next time!
We had SoCo Creamery ice cream multiple times on our last trip to Williamstown, so when we found out that there was a SoCo location in downtown Great Barrington, there was no question as to where we’d be having an afternoon treat. Just as creamy and delicious as we remembered, SoCo ice cream is a Berkshires must for any ice cream lovers like ourselves.
Benedict Pond + Beartown State Forest
Richard & Clare made the fantastic recommendation to take Orvis for a hike in nearby Beartown State Forest. The loop trail meanders around the Benedict Pond, briefly overlapping the Appalachian trail, and afforded Orvis a couple of different opportunities to take a quick dip, which is always a highlight of any hike for us!
For our next trip: a hike up Monument Mountain and lunch at Bizalion’s, followed by dinner at Allium (the sister restaurant to Williamstown’s Mezze). Fingers crossed we don’t have to wait too long to plan another visit to Great Barrington!
All photos taken by Meredith Perdue for Map & Menu.Leave a comment
It seems like we’ve been popping in and out of k colette for beautiful gifts for others (and ourselves) since the day they appeared on Commercial Street, so when the opportunity arose to drop by before they opened one morning, take some photographs, and meet the team behind one of our favorite shops in Portland, we couldn’t resist.
Located in an old molasses storage space on Portland’s waterfront, the spansive exposed brick and beam storefront is something to behold even before you begin to take note of the incredible selection of artwork, textiles, and home decor items that have been carefully selected and displayed throughout the shop. Inside their doors, you’ll find some of our very favorite brands and designers, both from Maine and away - Coral and Tusk, John Robshaw, Brahms Mount, Sea Bags, Salt Furniture Co., and many more - every product with a “story tag” describing the artisan, the item, the process, and the location. These story tags are in part what help define the unique taste and selection of k colette. Their commitment to goods and artisans with a history of passion and craftsmanship is perfectly exhibited in their thoughtful selection.
On top of their brick and mortar storefront, k colette also has a fantastic online presence. Almost the entire selection of the shop is available through their online store, and their blog, The Revue, features visits to the homes and studios of a growing number of the artisans whose products they carry – reiterating their commitment to the stories behind the products they carry. As consumers, we love to see an emphasis placed on the well-designed, carefully selected, and thoughtfully produced, and the selection at k colette perfectly typifies this idea.
Contact Information - k colette
Portland, Maine 04101
On our recent trip to Scotland, Meredith and I spent a number of days exploring Skye – a place that both of us have desperately wanted to visit for as long as we’ve known each other. In all of our travels, I think it’s fair to say that the island is one of the most naturally beautiful places we’ve ever experienced, and it’s impossibly hard to put into words just how majestic Skye is – from its towering coastal cliffs, to its grassy spansive glens, and jagged mountainous center. In fact, I’ve never been more glad for Meredith’s photos, both to share some of Skye with you, but also to remember the beauty of the island for ourselves.
As the northernmost island of the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, Skye is accessible by both ferry and bridge, and given our journey up the Scottish coast from Oban, the ferry from Mallaig seemed like the slightly more picturesque (and maybe adventurous) way to start or time on the island. After a beautiful ferry ride full of panoramic views of both Skye and the mainland, we began our slow drive up the coast - slow, only in that we stopped no less than ten times to take in the views of the mountains, countryside, and maybe a Highland coo or two.
In the ensuing days, we covered a ton of ground on the island. We saw Kilt Rock, the Quiraing, and the views from Waternish (where our car was literally herded down the road by two sheep dogs!). We spent an amazing sunset at Neist Point, visited the cliff-shrouded beach at Talisker Bay, and went for a windy hike to Coral Beach. We saw animals galore - coos, horses, and sheep around every corner (did I mention we were there just a few weeks after lambing season, so every sheep had a playful and curious little lamb closely in tow?). We had one of our top all-time meals at Three Chimneys, stopped by the Talisker whiskey distillery, and met Roger, one of the co-owners of Skye Weavers, where he and his partner Andrea weave stunning woolen textiles and tweeds with natural dyes on their bicycle loom. To say that we kept busy would be an understatement, but given how delightful every part of our trip was, it blew by in the blink of an eye.
Marking a visit to Skye off of our list of places to see was one of the more fulfilling adventures we’ve been on since we started Map & Menu. For me personally, Skye had been a dream for a very long time, and I think that Meredith would agree that it lived up to every part of our lofty expectations. If Isle of Skye is on your own list of places to see, I sincerely hope you make it there, and until then, I hope that some of Meredith’s photos help to supply your Scottish daydreaming needs!
All photos taken by Meredith Perdue for Map & Menu.4 Comments - Leave a comment
Unlike many trips Michael and I take, our time in the Scottish Highlands didn’t quite revolve around food. Trying restaurants that we’ve read about is a huge part of the way we travel (see February’s trip to Charleston), but with Scotland we were more focused on experiencing the natural beauty and sights of the countryside. Outside of our meals in Edinburgh, many of the pubs or restaurants we happened upon were nothing extraordinary, which, combined with the plethora or gorgeous public areas, actually inspired us to have a few more picnic meals than we usually do. All of that being said, there was one meal, however, on Skye that we were really looking forward to - our lunch at The Three Chimneys.
We’d read about The Three Chimneys in both our Where Chefs Eat book and our copy of the NY Times 36 Hours in Europe, and after our deliciously memorable lunch there, we can easily see why the restaurant is consistently named by many esteemed food writers and respected publications as one of the world’s best restaurants. The setting – an old stone crofter’s cottage overlooking Loch Dunvegan – is idyllic, and the food – sourced primarily from the island and the surrounding Highlands - is nothing short of excellent.
The three course lunch menu allowed us to sample a variety of the restaurant’s modern Scottish fare. Michael opted to start with the Ham & Haddie Terrine with cucumber, apple, sorrel, and herring roe, while I began with the Russian Salad with roasted candy beetroot, asparagus, mustard leaf, and seeded praline. Up next – the Blade and Tongue of Black Isle Beef with puy lentils, celeriac remoulade, ramsons, and pickles for Michael, and the River Esk Sea Trout with anna potato, peas, radish leaf, and choron sauce. Our meal could have concluded here and we would have left the restaurant more than delighted, but thankfully we still had dessert! We shared bites of both the famed Hot Marmalade Pudding with Drambuie custard and the Dark Chocolate & Stem Ginger Ganache with malt ice cream. As we finished the final bites of our dessert course, we grinned in simultaneous conclusion that this truly was one of those once in a lifetime meals – one that we surely won’t be forgetting anytime soon.
All photos taken by Meredith Perdue for Map & Menu.
Contact Information - The Three Chimneys
Naturally, we were quite sad when our dear friends, Darcy & Carolyn, told us that they were packing up their darling shop and sweet pups and moving down to Hudson, NY, but we knew that our friendship with the four of them was far from over - in fact, it’s arguably even better, now that they live in a fun new town with amazing shops & restaurants. If this past weekend that we spent with them in Hudson is any indication, the future of our friendship is looking bright, with all kinds of adventure, laughs, and of course, great food!
When we weren’t catching up with them in their stunning new apartment (see below for proof!) or walking our three dogs around town, we were falling in love with the quirky charm of Hudson. Some of our favorite food highlights from the weekend included takeout from Hudson Food Studio, a relaxed brunch at Cafe Le Perche, and the most delicious ice cream sundaes at LICK. The selection at Hudson Wine Merchants was also spot-on, and we’re already busy planning our next visit to include a stop at Bonfiglio & Bread, which was unfortunately closed this weekend.
The drive down to Rhinebeck for the Sunday farmer’s market was gorgeous and only made us more excited for future trips to explore the charming towns of the Hudson River Valley. Needless to say, there will be plenty of Map & Menu posts highlighting this beautiful area of New York (including one on Great Barrington in the very near future). And of course, we cannot wait to share some photos of the new 2 Note shop, opening at 255 Warren Street in mid-July. Until then, we’d love to hear any recommendations you might have for the Hudson area… because we simply can’t wait to go back!
All photos taken by Meredith Perdue for Map & Menu.6 Comments - Leave a comment
When my two London-based teammates and I were planning our next team meetup last January, Scotland seemed like a natural location… of course it didn’t hurt that both Meredith and I have wanted to visit the country for as long as we can remember! We worked from Scotland’s capital city, Edinburgh, for a week, eating, drinking, and exploring or way through town when we weren’t working, and then Meredith joined me for a week to tour the Highlands and Isle of Skye (more about those to come), followed by one final evening back in Edinburgh before the two of us flew out.
Edinburgh is a fantastic city, full of history, architecture, natural beauty, and delicious food, and although Meredith’s time there was sadly short, we were still able to see, do, and eat plenty. The following are a few of our favorite parts of the city, both from my week working and then our day together. If you’re visiting Edinburgh, we highly recommend that you check out these places!
We decided to splurge a bit on the final night of our week-long trip to Scotland with a stay at The Balmoral, the historic landmark hotel located right in the heart of the city. Aside from the fact that JK Rowling finished writing the Harry Potter series at The Balmoral, the highlight of our brief visit was the nod to Scotland’s own Sean Connery in the bathroom (see below) and our warm welcome from Richard the oft-photographed kilted doorman.
The views of Edinburgh and its neighboring towns from the top of Calton Hill are truly unforgettable. The hill itself is home to various monuments and historical buildings, including the headquarters of the Scottish Government. It even overlooks Arthur’s Seat, rumored to be one of the possible locations of the fabled Camelot.
It’s hard to imagine a more quintessential castle than that of Edinburgh’s. Set at the end of the ‘Royal Mile’, on top of a wall of cliffs that rise almost from nowhere in the center of town, it’s a focal point of the city and a constant reminder of the history of the place. Home to the Crown Jewels of Scotland and some more fantastic views of the city, the castle is worth a tour if you don’t mind the touristy rush. However, if you’re in the mood for something a little quieter, spend some time walking through the Princes Street Gardens below the castle.
Water of Leith & Royal Botanical Garden
If you’re like us and you feel a little overwhelmed by the crowds of the Royal Mile and Princes Street, head north and get lost in the New Town neighborhoods between the Queen Street Gardens & the Royal Botanic Gardens. A leisurely stroll along the Water of Leith only adds to the serenity of this quiet city escape.
I enjoyed my first meal at The Dogs with my teammates so much, that when faced with only one dinner in Edinburgh once Meredith and I returned, the choice was fairly obvious. The Dogs is wonderfully low key, with its sparse second story flat and eclectic collection of tables, chairs, dishes, and cutlery. In fact, the most uniform part of its design is its homage to the owner’s dogs (which made Meredith and I feel right at home). During both trips, our meals were fantastic, concentrating on flavor and taste over presentation or formality, and leaving us in the perfect mindset for a leisurely stroll back to our hotel.
Easily some of the very best Indian food we’ve ever had, Khushi’s was another find from our trusty Where Chefs Eat book (where we discovered essentially all of the places we ate in Edinburgh). We were ravenous after the long drive from Skye and noticed that the only conversation we shared during our lunch were the proclamations of how amazing our meals were. If Indian cuisine is in your plans for a trip to the UK, Khushi’s should be your destination!
One day for lunch, my teammates and I decided to spoil ourselves with a prix fixe meal at chef Tom Kitchin’s namesake, The Kitchin. Concentrating on locally-sourced ingredients (to the extent that they provide a map with your meal’s sources around the United Kingdom), the restaurant executed every part of our meal to an exacting precision. Three delicious courses later, we plopped ourselves down around the comfy bar to have some coffee and reminisce about the tasty meal we’d just devoured
Sadly, Leo’s Beanery didn’t open early enough for Meredith and I to stop by before our flight out of town, but my breakfast here the week before was tasty enough that we figured it deserved a mention. A New Town neighborhood eatery, tucked away in the basement of one of the neoclassical city blocks, I recommend that you stop in for a traditional Scottish full breakfast (bacon, eggs, black pudding, beans, mushrooms, sausage, and tomatoes), or some lighter bakery fare.
All photos taken by Meredith Perdue for Map & Menu.2 Comments - Leave a comment
Right after we returned to the states from Scotland, Michael and I had to pack our bags once again – this time for a road trip down to North Carolina with Orvis. We broke up the drive by spending a night at our go-to spot, Hotel Fauchere. (Read more about our past trips to this darling Milford, PA inn here.) One of the best parts about staying at Hotel Fauchere is having a tasty dinner at Bar Louis, located just downstairs. After years of hearing about the restaurant’s famed sushi pizza, we finally sampled it, and it definitely lived up to the hype! The next morning before we had to spend the day in the car, we went for a run and enjoyed what is probably our favorite hotel breakfast.
Between visiting both of our families and shooting a wedding, our days in North Carolina were a blur. We had the chance to spend some time with both our families and some very dear friends, and it even worked out for us to attend our nephew’s second birthday right before we left to start the drive back up to Maine. We bade farewell to the South with full hearts and big smiles on our faces after getting to see so many loved ones in such a short amount of time.
All photos taken by Meredith Perdue for Map & Menu.7 Comments - Leave a comment
I remember bookmarking the chic Greenwich Village hotel, The Marlton, the minute I finished reading about it on The Pursuit of Style this winter, and when spring rolled around and my mother asked me to accompany her on a work trip to New York, I told her that we needn’t look any further than The Marlton. Since then the hotel has been featured on Condé Nast Traveler’s Hot List (along with a few other Map & Menu favorites – most notably, the Salt House Inn) and seems to be the place to stay in the Village. For that matter, it might just be the place to be for locals as well, thanks to Margaux, the hotel’s chic restaurant.
Michael appreciates a thoughtfully designed hotel room as much as I do (and goodness knows he loves a luxurious bathroom), but it was fitting that I had the chance to experience this chic hotel with my mother, the woman (mostly) responsible for the love and appreciation I have for beautiful hotels & inns. We couldn’t get enough of the marble bathroom (and its giant soaking tub!), the brass fixtures, the herringbone floors, or the crown moldings – you can imagine how pleased I was to be able to photograph such a lovely space.
On our way out the door after checking out the morning of our departure, my mother proclaimed that she’ll never stay in another New York hotel again – The Marlton is the only place for her. I have to say, I think she just might be onto something. After all, mothers really do know best, don’t they?
All photos taken by Meredith Perdue for Map & Menu.
Contact Information - The Marlton
New York, New York 10011
Michael and I made it back from Scotland this weekend and are oh so happy to be reunited with our sweet pup! We have plenty to share about our trip and will likely begin with a few posts next week, but here’s a quick peek into our Scottish adventures for now. We spent the week in absolute awe – what a beautiful country!
All photos taken by Meredith Perdue for Map & Menu.3 Comments - Leave a comment